MeAndering the Camino

For many pilgrims the journey doesnt end in Santiago but in Finistere or Muxia, 90 miles west of Santiago on the coast of Galicia. For some, this is a separate Camino. Today, I made the journey by bus due to time and tired legs/feet! It was a very nice day, despite the rainy and at times blustery weather. Admittedly, I did feel a longing when seeing the familiar blue and yellow markers on walls, bridges and along roadsides. The 7 stops showed some more historical significance and explained the importance of Galicia, the crops and strategic position of the region. Many points we missed or wondered about while walking. For example, corn was ever present in the fields and being September, about ready to be harvested. Corn is not indigenous but was brought to Spain after the exploration of the “New World” in the 15th century. However, as the soil is very acidic, after harvest time, truck loads of mussel and clam shells are brought from the abundant waters off the coast to add calcium and nutrients to the soil. Who knew?!

We also learned that all those wonderful bridges I have admired served as a way of creating wealth for whoever or whatever owned them. Having a bridge meant ability to collect a toll for each man and beast to cross the water!

Another structure I have been admiring along the way in Galicia appeared to be a storage facility like an American farm silo. Today I finally learned they are called “Horreo”. They are, in fact, meant for storage of a variety of products-grains, meats, vegetables. Their unique design allows air to flow through but rain not to as the spaces for air are actually tilted inside so rain cant blow in. The large circular shape under the main structure but on top of the posts is purposely designed as rats and other intruders could climb the poles but not hang on upside down. A typical family might have a Horreo with 2 spaces between posts (or 3 sets of legs). In the town of Carnota, the Horreo is famous as the largest one in Galicia. It has 18 spaces. Not for a large family however, it belonged to the church!

We also stopped at Ezaro to see the only river in Europe that empties to the sea as a waterfall.

As we drove further along the “Coast of Death“, we approached Finisterre. The coast was given the nickname “of death” by the British due to the number of shipwrecks in the 200 km stretch of Galician coast. For the Romans and early pilgrims, Finistere, where the land meets the ocean, represented the end of the known world. I could easily understand this belief today and what they might have believed lied beyond in our conditions today. A powerful wind came in as we approached and standing on the point of the western most lighthouse of continental Europe, the front made a defined “wall” offshore and nothing could be seen beyond. The wind was so fierce, I honestly worried about standing still while getting a picture with the Camino KM marker “0”!

After an amazing lunch in the town of Fisterre if Galician Pulpo and Shrimps, we were off to our final stop of Muxia. Muxia can also claim being the furthest western point but doesnt have the name. What it does have is the claim to fame of being the “end of the world” in the movie “The Way” about the Camino starting Martin Sheen. There is also the “0” km marker here and the sculpture behind it.

Muxia also has a sanctuary to “the Virgin of Barca”. With the weather depression that encased us, the waves crashing at the lighthouse here and around rhe cape were amazing. The wind however, encouraged is all to take pictures and hump back in to the warm coach! I am sure it sunny weather, the view is breathtaking!

Since day 1, my left knee has given me pause on a regular basis but still I managed to soldier on for 14 – 20 miles a day. Riding the bus today and only walking for a few moments at a time, my knee is just throbbing tonight! However, I always planned to spend my last couple nights at a regular hotel and so Palacio del Carmen Marriott has become my home for the end of my journey. I dont think a hot bath ever felt so good!