MeAndering the Camino

Today started a little cooler temperature than expected but turned out to be a really nice day. Up and down 5 smaller river/stream valleys from Palas de rei to Ribadiso. The misty, skies cleared a bit fast and weren’t as think as yesterday. Have been enjoying, almost everyday, walking about 10k (2 hours) before stopping to eat and have coffee. Today I passed what seemed to be a popular stop and rounded the next bend and found a beautiful little stop. Guy and his father running “The Essential Coffee”. Enjoyed a Double espresso and a delicious piece of a carrot bundt cake while watching the crowds pass and enjoyed the hydrangea bushes just down the lane.

The path meanders through fields, forests, along roads and over farms and then into small villages. All along the way are the old stone churches that must have been built by families, the village or the Church itself for the spiritual guidance of the pilgrims. Many of the smaller ones are now deconsecrated but a docent is waiting to offer your stamp (sello) and allow visitors to see the frescos, statuary, and relics housed inside.

I think I mentioned this before but the stamps are required to receive your Compostela Certificate in Santiago. A pilgrim registers in various cities and receives their “credentials”. Along the way, Albergues, Cafes, churches, people selling things along the way, all offer them. Up to Sarria, you have to get one per day. Because Sarria to Santiago is the “minimum” one can walk and still receive the Compostela, it is required to collect 2 stamps per day after Sarria.

Not all vendors supporting the pilgrims are in “brick and mortar” buildings. There have been many artists along the way. Residents or farmers who set up a table or stand at the end of their driveway and people like the woman who’s classic Pink Fiat sits behind her amazing fruit and juice stand surrounded by picnic benches.

After the sun was up, the views continue to grab attention. The eucalyptus groves and pines gave a refreshing change to the nostrils from the livestock “gifts”. It was almost “zen like”. Almost.

The marker across from my place tonight is 40km. Cant believe that. Two weeks ago there were two days I walked 40 km each day but I will take two days this time savoring the last steps and sights.

36,875 steps, 15.9 miles today.