MeAndering the Camino

Today started early! The challenge of the albergues and especially the bunk bed situation, besides the bunkbeds, is that the rooms are sometimes different sizes and different numbers of bunks. Last night, I literally booked the place as I was walking up to it. There were 8 bunks in my room. 6 of them occupied by three couples traveling together and didnt seem too concerned what the other two occupants schedule was. I took advantage and when the group’s alarm went off at 6:00 this morning, I got up and got ready also. Was totally clear sky full of stars! We are far enough west in the Central European time zone that the sun is not “rising” now until about 7:45. That is almost 30 minutes later than when I first entered Spain last week! Consequently, I walked in darkness with my “cyclops light” on my head to light the path for almost 90 minutes! Thankful for the light or I might have stepped on the crawfish passing between the irrigation canals! Another pilgrim was not far behind me and was fascinated by it. A while later we ran into each other at a cafe while having a cafe solo and jamon and cheese sandwich for breakfast and she asked me what it was!

The cafe we were eating was overlooking the medieval bridge called Puente de Orbigo. Its historical account is that a knight took on 300 jousters and won to win the hand of the local princess. Upon doing so he made his way to Santiago to go give thanks. The story is what became the legend of Don Quixote!

An exciting note before the bridge was I finally saw my first stork in one of the bell tower nests just before the bridge! We are moving toward the mountains of Leon and I believe today may have been the last “mostly flat” day for a while. The fields are harvested and while the sun mostly stayed behind the clouds from mid-morning, some nice scenery was had.

As I approached the end of my day, barely after noon, the sky beyond Astorga was very dark and I wondered if I would make it before the rain came. I did and was happy to be early. Astorga had been a Roman city in the 2nd century. There aremany ruins, even an excavation of a Roman Durga (house) with beautiful mosaic work floors. I was also excited to see that another of the 3 Gaudi works outside Catalan region is here. The Episcopal Palace or offices was designed by Gaudi! I toured this afternoon and was amazing. Then the Astorga Cathedral was a lot to take in!

Yesterday I was ip and down with my selection of accommodation. Mostly for personal reasons but have to say that tonight’s excelled in every way possible. Albergue So Por Hoje doesnt do bunks. Instead it was twin sized beds. There are 10 in the top floor ans one bath but the place is amazing. Patricia that runs/own it is Brazilian and before dinner (hooray back to communal dinner), told her story. So Por Hoje is Brazilian Portugese for “just for today”. After her father died, she dod her first Camino and cried the whole way. After she told her children she was making a change and moved them to Astorga and opened the Albergue. Everything about the way and housing pilgrims is “just for today”. Its a beautiful place and a beautiful way to spend the evening! The four of us at dinner had a great conversation about “the way” and people telling is it creates change. One of my dinner companions, Ludi, is on her second Camino Frances. She is from Northern Germany and has walked all the way! 3 months, so far!