MeAndering the Camino

After another enjoyable dinner and a good night’s sleep, I was ready to get out there early today. headed out before dawn about 6:45. Treated to a gorgeous sunrise over the same mountains ridge that almost did me in yesterday!

Only about 30 minutes away I took a suggested detour to visit St Maria de Eunate church. For this history buff, this was the first treat of the day. Built in 12th century but unsure what it was meant to be…church, hospital or royal memorial as it was commissioned by a Spanish queen.

Enjoying the cool morning air, I moved at a good pace through the next towns- more 11 & 12th century churches, villages and bridges all very intriguing! One of the advantages of an early start is the weather, one of the disadvantages is everything is closed!

One of the villages was ls a hill village which was intriguing as one could see it from quite a distance. Cirqauqui was the first one of these. I had my first “non-selfie” taken at the gate to the city! What made me excited all morning though was the road and bridge leading out of Cirauqui was built by the Roman Legions when they occupied Spain. The road and bridge were old when all those churches were built!

All these structures that are older than my country, made me start thinking about the peregrinos walking to Santiago. The first record, I learned today, was in the 1100s. As I passed the sunflower fields, grape vineyards, olive trees, it made me start wondering about what the early pilgrims ate on the way. Did farmers get angry when those walking helped themselves to a little sustenance? Other trees and plants like figs, apples and plums grow randomly. I also thought about seeing the road signs indicating distances and how 20 km in a car is not so far but as a walker, thats a long day! What’s more is thinking all the wonderful people I have met will walk to Santiago and then fly, train, or bus home while the early pilgrims turned around and walked back!

This is the latest I have been to bed in a week. Its about 10:30pm. I got to Estella today, exhausted. The sun and heat when carrying a 14 lb backpack is challenging. The feet hurt, the back and shoulders are crying, the face is trying not to cry and coaxing all the rest to just get to our sleep place! i treated myself to a private room and bath tonight. While nice and all, I missed the conversations and getting to know others tackling the same challenge I am and why! This Albergue didn’t do meals so I ventured out to grab something quick before the rain started. With the extra walk up the street and back, today was 53,941 steps, just over 22 miles! Night y’all!