MeAndering the Camino

Knowing the day was beginning with an ascent of over 600m (1800ft+), I woke up early and took my time getting ready. Lots of stretching, carefully preparing feet with moleskin, Voltaren for feet and knees, making sure there were no creases in toe sock or socks. Then, with headlamp on and jacket zipped, I headed out in the dark to begin the ascent to O Cebieiros. On a few occasions I wished. i had gone ahead and made the climb yesterday afternoon but with the help of my headlamp I successfully dodged the horse and cow “gifts”, stayed in the dry parts of the path and made it to the first village as it was completely daylight. By the time I reached the next village of La Laguna, the albergue in town was serving and so I stopped for my first coffee and a Spanish Tortilla de Patates. The slice was so huge I thought it was for 2 or more and was in disbelief when I realized I had finished it!

When I departed from the breakfast, daylight was being pushed away by the sun burning through clouds and made for some incredible views as the clouds hung in the valleys and rays of sunshine began illuminating the fields and livestock, bringing the morning to life.

After the next little climb, the path turned the corner and entered a totally different experience and also a new region-Galicia. Suddenly the path was shrouded in a veil of misty clouds and the vegetation changed from hardwoods to great fir trees on the right and giant ferns on going into the valley. I had read about this as this turn and thus side of the mountains represent the first obstacle to the winds blowing in off the Atlantic and causes a dramatic change in climate.

The Village of O Cebreiro is the apex of the climb and historic as the burial place of a priest who was instrumental in keeping the Camino alive and promoted. The stone village had had a celebration the previous night and the non- peregrinos were just coming to life and taking down their booths as I went through about 10:00! After another quick espresso, I proceeded on and enjoyed a beautiful walk in the forest as I watched the sun burn brighter across the valleys stretching out to the north.

Before the last 4 km in to Tricastelera, I stopped for my final espress and a fresh orange juice. When I started to leave, a gentleman asked if I would like to walk together which I agreed to. While I don’t want to always walk and talk, the tikes when I have sure made the distance go by faster and before Patrick from Belgium and I knew it, we were in our destination. This worked out well to walk with him as we both seemed interested in stopping for sMe photos- the massive 100 year old oak, the welcome sign and a nice pastoral view coming into Tricastelera. We were in different lodging so maybe I will run into him another day.

Two weeks ago today I left Provincetown, boarded my flight at Boston’s Logan and started this adventure. A week from today, I will enter Santiago and spend a day before the adventure ends and I start the journey home. Sometimes that seems impossible and others I feel like I have been walking forever. Today was 19 miles (29km/41,199 steps). Today marked 290 km down and 140km to go! (180 miles down/ 87 miles to go)